Caring for African Hair: Sane Hair Straightening

In this lesson, you will learn how to straighten hair as a style option, not a societal obsession. There are many things people do all the time, that simply shouldn't be done to straightenned or relaxed hair.

Though any forcible changing of hair texture is somewhat harmful, there are things you can do to minimize the damage. Read on.

When you're done, take our certificate course in African Hairstyles for more information.

Lesson 1: Caring for African Hair Overview
Lesson 2: Beading
Lesson 3: The Art of Parting
Lesson 4: Sane Hair Straightenning

Sane Hair Straightening Techniques:

The Blow-out

A blow-out is partial texturizing or straightenning by using setting lotion, hair oil, and hot air. If it's done right, it can make the hair alot more manageable without causing nearly as much damage as chemical relaxers. Really, there are only two clicks of pH factor between hair relaxers and depilatory hair remover creams.

There are two methods of blowing out the hair. One is with a comb blowdryer, and the other is using a roller set, but roller setting is tedious, and not a good idea to help African kids love their hair.

The comb blowdryer is the easiest to control. You can choose between loosenning the curl to straightenning. To just loosen the curl, you stop just when the hair is dry. To straighten, you continue blowdrying until it's fairly straight.

After washing the hair, apply a hair oil and setting lotion, or a hair mask, and then separate it into four to six sections. Then blowdry each section by combing gently outwards with the blowdryer to the desired texture.

Again, you will not be able to get perfectly straight hair without causing some damage, so be gentle and don't obsess. Here are some tips to get the best outcome:

The best product for blow-outs is silicon or argan oil based hair mask. It might also be a good idea to use a serum at the ends, to cut down on the frizz. By the way, biracial people with 3c textured hair have the same texture as many north Africans. The standard products to reduce frizziness and keep curls bouncy are hair mask and serum.
While each section you're working on is still warm, braid it or put it in large hair rollers. Braiding it will give you a cute crimped look while large rollers will give it a straighter but somewhat wavy look.
If your hair reverts before it's time to wash it again, simply spritz it with some water mixed with setting lotion or reapply a little hair mask and a little water, and gently blowdry it again.

Hot Combs Curling Irons and Flat Irons

Hot combs and flat irons are easy to use, and you have more control than a blowdryer as far as keeping the tool off the roots of the hair. One thing to remember though, is to keep the heat as low as possible. Try it at the lowest setting first, and only increase if needed.

Just take a small section of hair, and pass the flat iron or hot comb through it. Do not let the tool set on any part of the hair for more than 3 seconds, or you're flirting with damage.

With children's hair, the blow-out is better than hot combing or using a flat iron. Kids' hair is too fragile to take much heat over time, and it may lead to more breakage than is necessary.

Chemical Relaxers and Coloring

Many cosmetologists believe that permanent coloring, relaxing and texturizing hair should not be done at home. I can definitely understand why, since I am a recovering relaxer who is now natural. Chemical relaxers cause alot of damage to the hair that isn't necessary since they invented hair wax and the comb blowdryer.

However, some folks like relaxers for the convenience. I believe that if one is going to do it at all, they should do it right. So despite my dislike of relaxers, I'll show you how to do it well.

The first thing you should know is that no relaxer cream is going to give someone perfectly straight hair. It will usually frizz or curl back up at least a little after it is wet. So put the idea of having European hair out of your mind.

Second, relaxers and texturizers do cause hair loss and chemical burns. They are one of the leading causes of cicatrical alopecia, which is hair loss due to scarring.

So chemical relaxers and texturizers should be viewed as a style option, not a necessity.

I feel like warning, "There is still time to go back."

If you insist on taking this route, there are some things that will prevent it from being a total disaster.

Follow the directions on the package. The makers of the product know best how it is supposed to be used with minimal damage.
Always apply relaxer or coloring creams with a tint brush. Even if it comes in a convenient squeeze tube, this doesn't spread the product evenly enough.
Definitely wear gloves. If you don't your nails could be ruined.
Whether or not the directions say to, protect the hairline and ears with a good coating of petroleum jelly. A headband to shield the eyes is also a good idea.
Do not use hair grease on the scalp after relaxing. The scalp will need time to heal with lots of air. Only apply oil to the hair shaft.
Do not style the hair in a tight hairstyle, roller set, or blowdry just after relaxing. This will kill your cuticle and worsen scarring. Wrap the hair in a towel to remove excess water, and then let it air dry. Stylists doing such things are unfortunately overly influenced by society, and not sane hair care. It is very common, but it is one of the worst things someone can do to your hair. When the hair is relaxed or colored, it has just been exposed to chemicals that basically melt it a little, and change the texture or color. Nobody in their right mind should consider pulling the hair more than it takes to just to comb it (with the large toothed comb) and maybe put it in a few loose braids, or put any heat to it for at least 24 hours. Yet it happens all the time. Just don't let it happen to you. If you must have a finished hairstyle, opt for a wrap. That's where you apply hair mask and a bit of gel or setting lotion, brush the hair upwards or around the head, wrap this with a silk scarf, and then sit under a hood dryer on medium to low until it's just dry enough to hold.

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